BORN TO BE A TAMALE
Chapter 5
Down Mexico Way
Situated at an altitude of 7,000 feet, at the foot of the Rocky Mountains, the terrain had prevented the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe railroad from ending up in Santa Fe. The rail line was diverted to Albuquerque, New Mexico, an hour’s drive west of Santa Fe. If Walter knew this he didn’t make mention of it to Harriet. His plan was to follow the rail into Colorado, turn south at Pueblo toward New Mexico, and connect to Route 66, keeping the conductor on route. There were two westbound highways out of Dodge City. Harriet had already determined Walter’s route was untenable, it added another day to their drive, and she was tired of the run around and impatient to head for the border. Besides, Santa Fe was the one and only station she really wanted this train to pull into.
As if as an omen, Gene Autry’s “Down Mexico Way” was playing on a local radio station as she guided Walter to the onramp for U.S. 160. At first the two lane highway followed the route west straight toward Colorado, but gradually changed and meandered in a more southwesterly direction. In a show of resoluteness the co-pilot folded the maps and stored them in the glove compartment, sat back in the passenger seat and focused on the changing Southwestern landscape. Thinking he was on course to follow the Southwest Chief, Walter occasionally glanced at the parallel railroad track and assumed he was on the right path. After several hours of driving when his stomach was grumbling he thought it strange, and his curiosity peaked at not passing Garden City, Lamar and La Junta train stations; names he recalled from reading the maps. Entering Boise City he pulled into the Blue Bonnet Café to grab a bite and mitigate the grumblings of an empty stomach. The city was a place he didn’t recall seeing on the maps.
As he stepped out of the van something didn’t feel right. Instead of the distant mountains of Colorado it was as flat as his home province of Manitoba. A couple of inches of snow covered the landscape and made it even more puzzling. Harriet was as nonchalant as ever, marveling at the winter scene, and not buying into Walter’s confusion. She knew exactly where they were—200 miles from Santa Fe, and due south was Texas, leading to the border. She estimated they were half way to her village in Mexico.
Unaccustomed to strangers, the proprietor Alfalfa “Bill” Weaver came over to introduce himself after they sat down. Walter skipped the niceties and went right to the question. “Where are we?” When he heard Boise City, and the owner went on to expound, the northwestern edge of the Oklahoma Panhandle, the snowiest place in the State, averaging 30 inches of snow every year; the lights went on and it dawned on him he’d been sidetracked. Harriet’s response to the inquisitive look on Walter’s face was simple. She must have taken the wrong track, but they were heading toward Santa Fe, and would end up there by evening. End of conversation. After ordering the café’s famous battered chicken fried steak covered in rich country gravy, they ate in silence. Leaving Walter wondering why the smile on Harriet’s face.
The restaurant appeared to be a go to place in the city and they watched a steady stream of clientele wearing Stetsons and boots pass through the entrance. The walls were covered with pictures and paraphernalia presumably of people and places around Boise City. Harriet thought they could use a good dusting. Many of them captured scenes which piqued Walter’s interest, and took his mind off how he came to be in the Blue Bonnet Café in the first place. Pictures of locomotives, rail yards, and an engine house, and foremost in his line of sight one of a depot with the date 1925. He got up to take a closer look and started a conversation with Bill about his favorite topic, trains. When he sat back down his sullen mood had evaporated.
It turned out Boise City was a railroad junction dating back to the early 1900s that once ran lines to Kansas, Colorado, Texas and New Mexico. The Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad had a side line that came through Boise City’s station. The depot still served the Santa Fe and BNSF lines. The railroad still operated from Dodge City to Boise City and it was that track he saw as he drove along U.S.160. When they pulled out of the parking lot Walter first had to go and check out the depot. Built to the standards of 1910 it still looked in good shape, the paint job closer to pink than the Santa Fe Colonial yellow. Walter was satisfied, and the storm over the Dodge City cutoff had blown over. Where the tracks led from here bemused Harriet, and would have to wait until after Santa Fe.
The B&B closest to the Santa Fe plaza, the one Harriet had researched long before the planned escape from Winterpeg, she found to be as perfect as it was pictured in the advertisement. It was the former home of an American poet and writer whose close friends were frequent guests or residents of Santa Fe: Georgia O’Keeffe, D. H. Lawrence, Tony Hillerman, O. Henry, Paul Horgan, Edna St. Vincent Millay, Igor Stravinsky, Willa Cather, and many others she could rhyme-off in her head. Harriet knew their Dewey decimals, and had admired all of them over the years. It was a librarian’s fantasy to feel their energy. With its thick mud adobe walls, stone walkways through its walled in garden, and the capper, a kiva fireplace in their room, she had looked forward to staying at the B & B as her last hurrah north of the border, and bugger the expense or Walter’s protestations. Walter, of coursse could care less about any of it. After driving seven hundred kilometers he went and ordered a hamburger and fries at a nearby restaurant before crashing and burning in their room. He left Harriet savoring chili rellenos and corn soup at a bistro close to the Georgia O’Keefe museum, first on her bucket list. She had a good couple of hours before nightfall, and planned to make the most of it having memorized the sites she wanted to see.
Santa Fe meant “holy faith” in Spanish, and for Harriet whose Catholic faith carried her through to this point in her life, standing on the dirt floor of the San Miguel Chapel, the oldest known church in the United States, she was spellbound. The church predated the Cathedral-Basilica of Notre-Dame de Québec (Our Lady of Quebec City) in Canada, by a couple centuries. The first and only vacation they’d shared together had been by train; Winnipeg to Halifax compliments of the Canadian National Railroad for Walter’s twenty-fifth anniversary with the company. At Harriet’s insistence they visited Notre Dame in Quebec City, which did nothing for Walter.
After visiting museums and shops she took a cab and headed toward the Santa Fe Opera, 7 miles north of the city. Her accommodating cab driver gratified to have a paying customer in the off season was more than willing to park and wait for her. The opera house was open to visitors, but only operational during the summer tourist season. It was built on a Mesa and faced west. She located a seat in the balcony overlooking the open stage and beyond, a view that took her breath away. Now, late in the afternoon, with the rich colors of a desert sunset, and a backdrop of the Tesuque Valley, under the Jemez Mountains, it was like staring at a painting by Monet. Harriet had read in the brochure Giacomo Puccini’s Madama Butterfly was performed in 1957 on the opening night of the Santa Fe opera. She had listened to the opera so many times over the years she could play the arias in her head. It’s a story of the power of attraction between two people, and how it got sidetracked and went off the rails. Closing her eyes she could hear the orchestra and chorus filling the space around her, and felt both melancholic and heartsick. In her twilight years, Harriet was looking forward to a new beginning, a new adventure after being stuck going nowhere for so long. She acknowledged, sadly, she and Walter were likely never going to be in sync with one another.
Her commitment to the marriage, from the very beginning was rock solid, and would continue, God willing. She’d read where marriages evolved to a place where partners could read one another’s mind, and finish one another’s sentences. She assumed that came in time with togetherness and being on the same page. Over the years she had read Walter’s book enough times, it had become worn and dog eared predictable. The librarian had leafed through his genres to no avail. The storyline of the slender, athletic, boy jock had morphed into rigidity after sitting in the cab of a train for years on end. There was no Mystery, no plot, no suspense, and motivation was nonexistent; Drama, Humor, Fantasy all sat on the shelf getting dusty. Romance with any emotional satisfaction and any optimism, never quite gathered enough steam.
He did, however, bring home the bacon, and never complained about her cooking. He tolerated her Catholicism, and respected her for being the conductor of her domain. She knew, sadly, that Walter would never settle easily into her dream of reality. Her role was both the Monarch Butterfly winging its way from Canada to Jalisco, Mexico, and Madama Butterfly waiting for her man to show up. She had no expectations like Cio-Cio San, he’d be coming home. He would be there, in body as always, not in spirit, not in a particularly loving way, just always there, with his golf clubs, his scotch, and memories of a train he’d never leave behind. Her love, however, was singular and complete.
Harriet had memorized the lyrics of the beloved aria from the opera now playing in her head, “Un bel dì vedremo,” and on this one fine day, she could hear the soprano singing—‘and I wait a long time, but I do not grow weary of the long wait.’ She had come to her resolution a while back, she would wait no longer for her man to arrive. Forty plus years of waiting was long enough. She had no intention of committing suicide as Madama Butterfly did, waiting on Pinkerton’s return. She planned to live in her year round garden unencumbered without the conditioned Catholic guilt, and enjoy her retirement. She had conceded after Kansas City to let Walter’s train keep on rolling as long as it headed toward Mexico. Mañana, she would point the old Iron Horse south to El Paso, and the Mexican border, and that would be it.
Walter thought his itinerary was preferable. Harriet would have none of it, and after a gourmet breakfast of artichoke & potato frittata, while Walter downed his black coffee and sugared donut, she pointed him toward El Paso, Texas—No más discusión!
[JTD1]
New postings to be continued every Sunday Morning
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